printer: กันยายน 2008

วันอังคารที่ 30 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551

To Upgrade or Not?

To upgrade or not? That is the question. At least, since the release of the new Athlon 64 FX-57, that is the question I have been pondering. Even though the FX-55, (which I am currently running), was everything I had hoped it would be, is the new FX-57 that much better? Well let's take a look.The Athlon 64 FX-57 has an increased clock speed of 200 MHz bringing it to 2.8 GHz, up from the 2.6 GHz found in the FX-55. AMD didn't stop there though, they added a few extras to improve performance.The chip's core is actually based on a revised K8 core code named San Diego (1 MB L2 cache), which bring's the size of the chip's die down to 90 nm from 130 nm. this is made possible by building the chip on AMD's latest SOI (Silicon and Insulator) technology.The FX-57 has an improved memory controller, making it more flexible in terms of allowing you to use different size DIMM's on the same channel.So is the FX-57 fast? It's screaming fast, but is it an enough of an improvement to warrent an upgrade? Well that depends a little on you. If you have to have the latest and greatest then this is the processor for you.With a $1000+ price tag, I would be willing to say that the Athlon 64 FX-57 is a little too pricey for most mainstream users or enthusiasts (myself included). Especially if you just dropped $800-$900 on an FX-55 just six months ago like I did.One other factor to consider is the future direction of processors. With an industry shift to dual-core processors, such as the Athlon 64 X2, the Athlon 64 FX-57 may be AMD's last installment in the single core processor market.Now having said that, the FX-57 still out-performs (in terms of gaming) even the fastest dual-core processor such as the Athlon 64 X2 4800+. This is largely due to the fact that most games are not built to take advantage of a dual-core processor, not yet anyway.So for the time being, the FX-57 will remain the fastest gaming processor on the market.Nicholas Spriggs is the author and creator of desktop-computer-guide and is dedicated to bringing you the most accurate information on computers and all things related <a target="_new" href="http://www.desktop-computer-guide.com">http://www.desktop-computer-guide.com</a> - Your guide to computers

A Short Introduction to Blu Ray

Blu ray is a next generation optical media format developed by the Blu ray disc association, a group of leading consumer electronics and technology companies such as Apple, Mitsubishi, Panasonic, Philips, Samsung, Sony, TDK to name, but a few.The format was developed for high definition video, as well as storing large amounts of data. A single layer Blu ray disc can hold 25gb of data, which is the equivalent to over 2 hours of high definition television or more than 13 hours of standard definition television. There are also dual layer versions of Blu ray that can hold up to 50Gb of data.While current optical media uses a red laser to read and write data, the new format uses a blue-violet laser instead. Despite the different type of lasers uses, Blu ray drives can be made backwards compatible.The benefit of using a blue laser is that blue light has a shorter wavelength so that it can be focused on a smaller target area than a red light laser. This allows data to be packed in more densely allowing more space for data in the same sized physical space.Blu ray is called Blu ray because it uses a blue light laser to write data onto the disc.Blu ray is expected to replace VCRs and DVD players and recorders over the coming years because Blu ray offers so much more capacity. Although it will take time for Blu ray technology to be come wide spread because the cost of DVD drives and media is so much cheaper than Blu ray at this time.Chuck Red runs several websites including <a target="_new" href="http://blueraystore.co.uk">http://blueraystore.co.uk</a> and <a target="_new" href="http://blueray-media.co.uk">http://blueray-media.co.uk</a>

The Importance Of Current Sense Resistor In Switch Mode Power Supply

Current sense resistor is usually located in the switch mode power supply section. Newer version of monitor-the b+ (boost) circuit also have this current sense resistor. If you repair electronic equipment especially the switch mode power supplies, the current sensing resistor is connected to the source pin of power FET (field effect transistor) and the other end to HOT GROUND. The value of current sense resistor is in the range of 0.1 ohm to about 1 ohm. The values are depends on the design of each power supply.In monitor power supply where pulse width modulation (pwm) ic UC3842 are used. Pin 3 of this power ic is called I-sense which means current sense and this pin is connected to source pin of POWER FET. The purpose of this current sense circuit is for overcurrent protection. This circuit usually samples the voltage drop across a resistor in series with the switching fet transistor. If the current rises abnormally due to some short circuit in the secondary side such as a shorted secondary diode or horizontal output transistor (HOT), the voltage will exceed a reference level and shutdown the pulse generator which is the PWM ic. This circuit provides protection to components in the event a problem occurs. In some cases where overload happen-the power section will blow and most of the time the components changed are fuse, power fet, pwm ic, zener diode and current sense resistor.Do you know that a small change in this current sense resistor value have a great impact on the secondary output? A little change in value say from 0.22 ohm to 0.44 ohm can caused your ouput voltage to drop into half! I have seen a lot of repairer can't detect this type of problem (low output voltage) due to that they used analog or digital meter that don't have the low ohms range. You can't differentiate if the low ohms resistor has its value changed by using normal meters. I personally use the Dick Smith ESR Meter which have the capabilities to check resistor value down to 0.01 ohm! If you don't have this special meter you may just direct replace the current sense resistor to see if the generated secondary output will back to normal voltage.Another tip is that if the current sense resistor in the monitor B+ circuit have changed value it will caused the output in the boost circuit to become low and you will have a small width display and of course the high voltage will become low as well. Instead of 24Kv it becomes 15-18Kv.Jestine Yong is a electronic repairer and a writer. For more information on electronic repair please visit his website at <a target="_new" href="http://www.noahtec.com/electronic-repair-articles.htm">http://www.noahtec.com/electronic-repair-articles.htm</a>

Flash Memory Part 2: MMC and SD

MMC and SDFlash memory is available in so many formats that it can be difficult to know what will work with any particular device. Devices such as MP3 players, PDAs, mobile phones, digital cameras, and personal computers can take advantage of flash memory to bolster their storage capacity, but selecting the right format may be easier said than done.To try to address all of the common formats in one Tech Tip might be quite a read, so we're doing a two part series on Flash Memory. Part I of the Flash memory series will focus on two similar, very popular and generally interchangeable formats: MMC and SD.The BasicsBefore getting into the details, some background on each card may be appropriate. The letters 'MMC' stand for MultiMedia Card, which is a format that was developed jointly by SanDisk and Siemens in 1997. The letters 'SD' stand for Secure Digital, and this format is an improvement on the original MMC design, and was developed jointly by SanDisk, Matsushita Electronics (better known as Panasonic) and Toshiba.Both formats are quite durable and the solid state (no moving parts) components are protected by a rigid plastic shell. The devices are generally unaffected by extreme temperatures, and should withstand a drop of 10 feet without experiencing any damage from shock.Physical FeaturesBoth MMC and SD flash memory units measure approximatly 24mm x 32mm x 2.1mm, about the size of a typical postage stamp, and weigh a mere 2 grams. This miniature footprint may make them about the easiest way to misplace your data, but also allows the devices that accept them to be smaller. Personal electronics are shrinking as they get more powerful, and the necessary accessories need to keep pace. Although they share the same basic form factor, MMC and SD cards can be distinguished by two physical features, a sliding tab and the number of connections.When looking at an MMC or SD card so that the label is facing you, and the electrical connections are facing away from you, there will be a notch in the upper right corner of the card. From this point of reference there will be a small sliding tab on the left edge of an SD card, not found on an MMC card. Compare this 512MB MMC card with this 512MB SD card and you can see the difference if you look closely at the enlarged images. This tab slides into two positions, locked and unlocked. It allows the user to manually write protect the data on the card, which means with the tab in the locked position data can be read from the card, but nothing can be written to or erased from the card.The other physical difference is on the backside of the card. An MMC card features seven electrical connections (small rectangular pads for data transfer and receiving power), whereas an SD card has nine.* While there may be rare exceptions, for all practical purposes, SD & MMC cards may be used interchangeably on current devices, especially if they indicate "SD/MMC" compatibility.Transfer RateSD and MMC cards are capable of similar data transfer rates, with a slight edge going to the SD cards. SD cards are now available with write speeds rated at 60x (9 MB/s) and read speeds rated at 66x (10 MB/s), while MMC transfer rates seem to peak at 9 MB/s in either direction. Not much of a difference and both are quite fast, but end user results will vary and may not reach these speeds in real world use, regardless of format chosen.SD and MMC cards should reference a speed as part of the technical specification, and it is an important thing to consider when shopping around. Lower speed cards are still commercially available, and can have an impact on the performance of digital cameras or other devices where speed may be critical. Each 'x' in the speed rating represents 0.15 MB/s, so if 45x compared to 66x doesn't sound like a big deal to you, maybe putting it in terms of 6.75 MB/s compared to 10 MB/s will. Instead of actual speed ratings, some manufacturers will use words like "High Speed" or "Ultra" when referring to the faster cards.Note: Check the actual write speed specs of your device before purchasing "Ultra" or "High Speed' chips. You could be putting a Hemi engine in a AMC Gremlin. Don't spend the extra money if the camera does not support it.CapacitySD cards are readily available in sizes up to 1 GB, 2 GB models are starting to show up, and the SD Card Association states that models with up to 4 GB and 8 GB of storage capacity are also on the way. In contrast, MMC cards have a maximum capacity of 512MB, making the SD technology much more appealing.SecurityAs mentioned in the physical features section above, SD cards offer the benefit of write protection. By 'locking' the card, a user can be assured that the data is secure until they take the necessary step to un protect it. Fears of accidentally losing or changing data can be eliminated by using an SD card over an MMC card, thus improving the security of the data.Another feature supported by SD, but not MMC, involves copyright protection. The SanDisk web site refers to this feature as "cryptographic security for protection of copyrighted data", and other locations reference it as DRM, or Digital Rights Management. Basically, licensed content can be written to an SD card and it can not be executed except from that specific card.ApplicationsIn general, SD and MMC cards are interchangeable and either can be used in a compatible device. An SD card may generally cost more than an MMC card with the same capacity, but as seen in this Tech Tip, it does offer more for the money.Many card readers are available for personal computers that promote the ability to read and write to a variety of common flash media formats. A 15-in-1 reader/writer, such as this one, can be made quite compact thanks in part to the fact that two of the 15, MMC and SD, can be read from the same slot on the device.MP3 players generally come with a base amount of memory to store music files, but having an expansion slot allows users to increase the capacity, and play time, by adding flash memory of their choice. The Pogo RipFlash MP3 Player is such a device, providing 256MB onboard as well as an SD/MMC slot for easy expandability.Mobile phones and PDAs can also take advantage of increased storage space thanks to flash memory slots. The Handspring Treo 600 is a combination phone/PDA that offers an SD/MMC slot for such convenience.And of course, digital cameras use flash memory as their 'film', where larger and faster cards are always a welcome upgrade. odak DX7630 6.1MP 3x Optical Zoom 4x Digital Zoom Camera The 6.1 MegaPixel Kodak DX7630 could fill up the same SD/MMC card much faster than the 3.2 MegaPixel Umax AstraPix 640, but one of the great things about these cards is that the user can choose the size, as well as the quantity to have on hand, in order to suit their particular needs and budget.One word of warning ? be sure to check your device for the capacity of the card that it can handle. If your camera can handle only up to a 512 MB card, then using a 1 GB card in the camera will be pointless (depending on the device, some will not even be able to read the card, whereas others will only use up to the capacity that it is rated for. Either way, you want to make sure that you match the card properly to the device). So as always, check your product's manual to be sure that you buy memory that it can support.Final WordsMMC and SD are two of the more commonly used formats of flash memory, but as mentioned, there are several others. Keep an eye out for next week's Tech Tip: Part II of the Flash Memory Series will address Compact Flash, Smart Media, Memory Stick, and xD formats.<a target="_new" href="http://www.geeks.com">Computer Geeks</a> <a target="_new" href="http://www.geeks.com/pix/techtips.htm">tech tips</a> and <a target="_new" href="http://www.geeks.com/pix/techtips.htm">computer help</a>

Basics of RAID

A couple of the recent Tech Tips from www.geeks.com have made mention of RAID, but the level of detail required in those tips didn't shed much light on what RAID actually is. The number of e-mail responses and comments in the Readers Digress section was convincing enough that an introduction to the basics of RAID would be an appropriate Tech Tip, so here it is.IntroductionThe word RAID sounds like it might describe something Marines conduct in Fallujah, or a can of what all roaches fear, but it is simply an acronym that stands for Redundant Array of Independent (or Inexpensive) Disks. Depending on who you talk to, the letter "I" can stand for either independent or inexpensive, but in my opinion independent is more appropriate, and far less subjective.RAID generally allows data to be written to multiple hard disk drives so that a failure of any one drive in the array does not result in the loss of any data, as well as increasing the system's fault tolerance. I say RAID generally does this, as there are several RAID configurations that provide different approaches to redundancy, but some RAID configurations are not redundant at all. Fault tolerance refers to a system's ability to continue operating when presented with a hardware (or software) failure, as should be experienced when a hard drive fails in one of the redundant configurations of RAID.The HardwareThe basic hardware required to run RAID includes a set of matched hard drives and a RAID controller.RAID can be run on any type of hard drive, including SCSI, SATA, and ATA. The number of hard drives required is dependent on the particular RAID configuration chosen, as described later. I mention the need for matched hard drives, and although this is not absolutely necessary, it is recommended. Most arrays will only be able to use the capacity of the smallest drive, so if a 250GB Hitachi drive is added to a RAID configuration with an 80GB Hitachi drive, that extra 170GB would probably go to waste (the only time that this doesn't apply is in a RAID configuration called JBOD (Just a Bunch Of Disks); which really "isn't a RAID configuration" but just a convenient thing that a RAID controller can do ? see "Basic RAID Configurations" below for more information). In addition to matching capacities, it is highly recommended that drives match in terms of speed and transfer rate as the performance of the array would be restricted by the weakest drive used. One more area that should be considered while matching is the type of hard drive. RAID controllers are generally for either SCSI, SATA, or ATA exclusively, although some systems allow RAID arrays to be operated across controllers of different formats.The RAID controller is where the data cables from the hard drives are connected, and conducts all of the processing of the data, like the typical drive connections found on a motherboard. RAID controllers are available as add on cards, such as this Silicon Image PCI ATA RAID controller, or integrated into motherboards, such as the SATA RAID controller found on the Asus K8V SE Deluxe (http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=K8VSE-DELUXE). Motherboards that include RAID controllers can be operated without the use of RAID, but the integration is a nice feature to have if RAID is a consideration. Even for systems without onboard RAID, the relatively low cost of add on cards makes this part of the upgrade relatively pain free.Another piece of hardware that is not required, but may prove useful in a RAID array is a hot swappable drive bay. It allows a failed hard drive to be removed from a live system by simply unlocking the bay and sliding the drive cage out of the case. A new drive can then be slid in, locked into place, and the system won't skip a beat. This is typically seen on SCSI RAID arrays, but some IDE RAIDS cards will also allow this (such as this product manufactured by Promise Technology: http://www.promise.com/product/product_detail_eng.asp?productId=92&familyId=7).The SoftwareRAID can be run on any modern operating system provided that the appropriate drivers are available from the RAID controller's manufacturer. A computer with the operating system and all of the software already installed on one drive can be easily be cloned to another single drive by using software like Norton Ghost. But it is not as easy when going to RAID, as a user who wants to have their existing system with a single bootable hard drive upgraded to RAID must start from the beginning. This implies that the operating system and all software needs to be re-installed from scratch, and all key data must be backed up to be restored on the new RAID array.If a RAID array is desired in a system for use as storage, but not as the location for the operating system, things get much easier. The existing hard drive can remain intact, and the necessary configuration can be made to add the RAID array without starting from scratch.Basic RAID ConfigurationsThere are about a dozen different types of RAID that I know of, and I will describe five of the more typical configurations, and usually offered on RAID controller cards.RAID 0 is one of the configurations that does not provide redundancy, making it arguably not a true RAID array. Using at least two disks, RAID 0 writes data to the two drives in an alternating fashion, referred to as striping. If you had 8 chunks of data, for example, chunk 1, 3, 5, and 7 would be written to the first drive, and chunk 2, 4, 6, and 8 would be written to the second drive, but all in sequential order. This process of splitting the data across drives allows for a theoretical performance boost of up to double the speed of a single hard drive, but real world results will generally not be nearly that good. Since all data is not written to each disk, the failure of any one drive in the array generally results in a complete loss of data. RAID 0 is good for people who need to access large files quickly, or just demand high performance across the board (i.e. gaming systems). The capacity of a RAID 0 array is equal to the sum of the individual drives. So, if two 160GB Seagate drives were in a RAID 0 array, the total capacity would be 320GB.RAID 1 is one of the most basic arrays that provides redundancy. Using at least two hard drives, all data is written to both drives in a method referred to as mirroring. Each drive's contents are identical to each other, so if one drive fails, the system could continue operating on the remaining good drive, making it an ideal choice for those who value their data. There is no performance increase as in RAID 0, and in fact there may be a slight decrease compared to a single drive system as the data is processed and written to both drives. The capacity of a RAID 1 array is equal to half the capacity of the sum of individual drives. Using those same two 160GB Seagate drives from above in RAID 1 would result in a total capacity of 160GB.RAID 0+1, as the name may imply, is a combination of RAID 0 and RAID 1. You have the best of both worlds, the performance boost of RAID 0 and the redundancy of RAID 1. A minimum of four drives is required to implement RAID 0+1, where all data is written in both a mirrored and striped fashion to the four drives. Using the 8 chunks of data from the example above, the write pattern would be something like this? Chunks 1, 3, 5, and 7 would be written to drives one and three, and chunks 2, 4, 6, and 8 would be written to drives two and four, again in a sequential manner. If one drive should fail, the system and data are still intact. The capacity of a RAID 0+1 array is equal to half the total capacity of the individual drives. So, using four of the 160 GB Seagate drives results in a total capacity of 320GB when configured in RAID 0+1.RAID 5 may be the most powerful RAID configuration for the typical user, with three (or five) disks required. Data is striped across all drives in the array, and in addition, parity information is striped as well. This parity information is basically a check on the data being written, so even though all data is not being written to all the drives in the array, the parity information can be used to reconstruct a lost drive in case of failure. Perhaps a bit difficult to describe, so let's go back to the example of the 8 chunks of data now being written to 3 drives in a RAID 5 array. Chunks one and two would be written to drive one and two respectively, with a corresponding parity chunk being written to drive three. Chunks three and four would then be written to drives one and three respectively, with the corresponding parity chunk being written to drive two. Chunks five and six would be written to drives two and three, with the corresponding parity chunk being written to drive one. Chunks seven and eight take us back to the beginning with the data being written to drives one and two, and the parity chunk being written to drive three. It might not sound like it, but due to the parity information being written to the drive not containing that specific bits of information, there is full redundancy. The capacity of a RAID 5 array is equal to the sum of the capacities of all the drives used, minus one drive. So, using three of the 160GB Seagate drives, the total capacity is 320GB when configured in RAID 5.JBOD is another non-redundant configuration, which does not really offer a true RAID array. JBOD stands for Just a Bunch Of Disks (or Drives), and that is basically all that it is. RAID controllers that support JBOD allow users to ignore the RAID functions available and simply attach drives as they would to a standard drive controller. No redundancy, no performance boost, just additional connections for adding more drives to a system. A smart thing that JBOD does is that it can treat the odd sized drives as if they are a single volume (thus a 10GB drive and a 30GB would be seen as a single 40GB drive), so it is good to use if you have a bunch of odd sized drives sitting around ? but otherwise it is better to go with a RAID 0, 1 or 0+1 configuration to get the performance boost, redundancy or both.Final WordsImplementing RAID may sound daunting to those unfamiliar with the concept, but with some of the more basic configurations it is not much more involved than setting up a computer to use a standard drive controller. But, the benefits of RAID over a single drive system far outweigh the extra consideration required during installation. Losing data once due to hard drive failure may be all that is required to convince anyone that RAID is right for them, but why wait until that happens.

RAM - What is It & Why You Need Plenty

This is the first article in the Understanding Your Computer series from aworldofhelp.com. Our goal is to help people understand how their computer works, not simply tell them what they need to buy or use. When you know how your computer works, buying the right system or upgrade is easy. The series is designed to provide valuable information to users of all knowledge levels, so if part of it seems too complicated or too simple for you, I hope you read on and get all you can out of the articles. If you have questions or comments about this or any article, please ask in the forums!RAM - What is it & why you need plentyMany people picture a computer as consisting in part of aProcessor - CPUMemory - RAMHard DriveThe way these three components interact is important to understanding how a computer works, and ultimately to understanding why you need enough RAM for your programs. Around the Internet and in Magazines you can find recommended RAM amounts for typical users. You also will find many places proclaiming RAM as the best performance for your dollar upgrade. I don't disagree at all, but I want you to understand what RAM actually does, and why it can be such a valuable upgrade.I covered this subject briefly in the aworldofhelp Notebook Buyer's Guide on page 4. The information in that article is accurate, but I want to try to make things a little clearer here.The article is divided into four sections, covering:1. The functions of the three components we are discussing and their relative speeds2. Why you need RAM and what takes up RAM3. Multitasking and how RAM improves performance4. How much RAM you needCPU stands for Central Processing Unit. It is the brain of your computer. When you open a program, like Microsoft Word for example, the CPU reads through lines of computer code and follows the instructions so you can use your program. When you play an audio file like an MP3, the CPU has to do work to decompress it while it plays. When you edit a picture the CPU has to perform many calculations to make even the smallest changes.One thing to note is that the CPU actually does have a very small amount of memory in it. This is the fastest memory in a computer system, but it is so small it doesn't really affect this article. Generally speaking, the CPU doesn't store the information that makes up the program, MP3, or picture, it only processes it. The data has to be located somewhere in your computer, and the CPU has to find it and then retrieve it.That action, the problem of locating the data and how it affects your overall system performance is what this article is about.RAMRAM stands for Random Access Memory. This memory is very fast, and you will see it in sizes like 256 MB, 512 MB, or 1024 MB. When you turn off your computer, the contents are erased, so it is only temporary memory. This is where the CPU looks first to get data to process. So if you are editing a picture, and its data is in this RAM, because RAM is fast memory, editing the picture will happen relatively quickly.Hard DriveYour Hard Drive is where you store all of your programs, music, video, and everything you keep on your computer. This is the memory where you store your files that remain even after you turn your system off. You will see them in all sizes, now typically ranging from 30 GB, to hundreds of GB. Hard drives are very slow compared to your CPU and RAM because they are mechanical. Inside the disk there are actually small readers that physically move around to locate and read data.If you are editing a picture, the CPU will first look in RAM memory to see if it is there, because RAM is fast. If it isn't, the CPU will go to the hard drive and edit the picture there. Because your hard drive is so slow, this takes a much longer time than if the picture had been in RAM.Again, the CPU only stores a tiny bit of data, so it has to get it from somewhere to operate on. If the CPU has data to process, it will do so as fast as it can, but if it doesn't, the brain of your computer simply sits and waits doing nothing. Only after it finds and retrieves the data it needs can it process it.So ideally, you want your CPU to find data in the fastest place possible. As you can see, if the data is in RAM you are far better off than if it is in your hard disk because RAM is so much faster. Just take a look at the graph below. It shows the time it takes to access each memory type in nanoseconds.Clearly, your hard drive is slow, but when you look at the above graph, and you see the numbers it is based on below, you realize just how slow it is. Each is an approximate access time in nanoseconds:CPU 1 ns RAM 60 ns Hard Drive 10,000,000 nsIt should be clear why the bars for your CPU and RAM do not even show up on this graph, your hard drive is simply extremely slow.So why bother with a hard disk?Seeing that, you might think that it would be great if you could just use huge amounts of RAM instead of a hard disk. You are right, this would be a great situation, but as you might imagine, the faster the memory in your computer, the more expensive it is. RAM prices have come down significantly in recent years, but it will still cost you much more compared to Hard Drive space.Computers work within this constraint - that faster memory is more expensive - by looking in the fastest place for information first, then moving to slower locations only when they need to. So if you hear your hard drive making noise or you see a light telling you it is being accessed, you know the data could not be found in RAM.Now you know that the hard drive access that's going on is very slow, and that is the reason your CPU, and in turn you, have to wait.So now you know that you want lots of RAM, at least enough for all your programs, so you don't have to access your slow hard drive too often. But what actually uses your RAM, and how can you see whether your system has enough?Windows itself takes up a lot of RAM. Microsoft says Windows XP will run on a machine with 64 MB of RAM, though they recommend 128 MB or 256 MB. If you have even more RAM than that, and I recommend you do, Windows will use some of it as well.Everything that loads when you boot up your computer also uses RAM. What these programs are actually doing is putting themselves in to RAM, if enough is available, so that they can be used very quickly. The problem is when there isn't enough memory for all these programs, and your computer runs very slowly.On my machine these programs load when I turn on my computer: AVG Antivirus Scanner Software Digital Camera Software Gmail Notifier AOL Instant Messenger And some server software for testingThen, everything I run after the boot up uses more RAM. Whatever Internet Browser I use, for example, takes up RAM. Microsoft Word does too, as well as all my programs. To see how much RAM you have and how much free RAM you have, you can open up Task Manager by right clicking on the start menu and selecting it, it looks like this.On the right, in the Physical Memory section my RAM is listed. My total and available memory is listed, and as you can see, just booting my computer into Windows XP and loading all the things I do, I have less than half of my RAM available for other programs.Your system will probably have less total RAM, but you'll be able to see how much and how much you have free. You can easily find out how much ram you have by right clicking on "My Computer" and going to properties, but it's useful to see it here so you understand what the Task Manager is showing. You can use this tool to convert the number shown in "K" to a number that you may be more comfortable with, in "MB".K MBOn my computer, 1048040 K converts to 1023.4 MB, which is 1024 MB.Your own system may give you a number a few megabytes lower than the actual. For example, 252 instead of 256. That is normal, and is a result of something else, like a video chip, using a portion of the RAM. The actual RAM your programs has to work with is the number listed in the Task Manager.In my example, I have a hundreds of Megabytes of free RAM. I sometimes fill the RAM if I am video editing or photo editing, but beyond that, it is rare. This is a good thing though, remember the chart. If your RAM is full, your Hard Drive will be used more, and since it is so slow, your system will grind to near a halt.By looking at the Task Manager, you can get a good idea of how your system is running. If you have lots of available RAM, you are in good shape. But many systems I see actually have almost no free RAM, and this is what causes the system to use the hard disk instead and run slower. Note that the available RAM will generally never hit zero, but will fluctuate around very low numbers if your system is out of memory.Our example so far has been simplified to show how doing one thing on your computer needs memory. But a real benefit of having adequate memory is multitasking. Basically, if you are doing more than one thing at a time, you are multitasking. If you are reading this article and editing a picture at the same time, you are multitasking.Generally, if you can switch between two open programs on your machine very quickly, they both are loaded into RAM. In this case, you can likely see plenty of available memory in Task Manager. On my machine, since I have plenty of RAM, I switch between two or three Internet browsers, Excel, PowerPoint, Instant Messenger, my audio player, and more very quickly.On the other hand if you don't have enough RAM, even with just two programs open, when you switch between them your computer may slow down considerably. The program you are switching to is not in RAM, and the CPU is forced to get information from the hard disk. As you open more programs, the situation only gets worse. A check on task manager in this case will likely show very little free RAM, too little in fact to fit all your programs.How Much RAM do you need?The best answer is that you need enough RAM to run all your programs and multitask between them quickly. If your system is running well and you check Task Manager and have lots of available RAM, you are probably in good shape. If your system is slow switching between more than one program, look at the task manager and see if your available RAM is low. If it is, adding more will likely make your entire system run faster, just by fitting more programs into RAM.You'll be amazed how fixing this problem will improve you computing experience overall. That is the reason so many people talk about RAM as being the best upgrade for older systems.If you are buying a new computer 512 MB is a good amount of RAM for most users. If you edit a lot of pictures or video, or if you can just afford the upgrade, moving up to 1024 MB (1 GB) is not a bad idea. Memory prices are much lower than they used to be, and you'll have extra memory for more programs now. For most users, the biggest advantage to getting more RAM is that if you keep your computer for a long time, the extra RAM could save you an upgrade down the road.But how much RAM is too much? Well you won't really slow down your system by adding RAM. Typical systems currently can accommodate up to anywhere from 512 MB - 2 GB of RAM. The problem is, after you have enough RAM, adding more really doesn't get you much, if any performance gain.With that in mind, check back soon for an article comparing performance of common applications, including multitasking, with different amounts of RAM. We'll test from 256 MB to 1024MB, and you'll be able to see how all we've covered here has a real affect on the speed of your computer.Steve Perlow is the founder of <a target="_new" href="http://aworldofhelp.com">aworldofhelp.com</a>, where you can find the aworldofhelp Top Picks in desktop and notebook systems.Visit aworldofhelp.com to get answers from real people to your questions about technology, travel and more.

วันจันทร์ที่ 29 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551

Ten Tips to Safeguard Your Laptops

The following is a list of tips to help safeguard your laptop while traveling or conducting business.1. Never leave your laptop unattended. Keep your laptop in your physical possession at all times and pay particular attention at the following locations: airports, hotels, car rental agencies, offices, restaurants, college campuses, restrooms, payphones, libraries, bars, hospitals, conferences centers, train stations and bus terminals.2. Record your laptop's serial number, make and model information in your purse or wallet so if your computer is stolen, the information will be readily available when you file a police report.3. Disguise your carrying case. By carrying your laptop in a case designed specifically for computers, you alert thieves to the fact that you are carrying something valuable. Instead, consider carrying your laptop in an ordinary piece of luggage, satchel, briefcase or other inconspicuous bag.4. Lock it up! Use computer- locking cables to secure your laptop to a desk or table.5. Etch, engrave or permanently mark your computer with your name and phone number. You might also consider placing several of your business cards inside carrying case pockets.6. Never place a computer in checked luggage.7. Identify your carrying case in some unusual way. Brightly colored tape, yarn or tags will help you to locate your bag in the event it comes up missing. When traveling, you might also consider affixing something brightly colored to your actual laptop ( in light of new security measures at airports, travelers are required to remove their laptops from their cases at security checkpoints).8. If your laptop must be left in your car, store it in the trunk of the vehicle prior to arriving at the final destination.9. Regularly back up information. Make sure you store this information separately in case your computer is stolen.10. Report it stolen as soon as possible. In the event that your laptop is lost or stolen, make sure you report it missing to your employer and local authorities as soon as possible. This will help to speed up the recovery process.Johnny May, CPP is an independent security consultant/trainer and the executive producer of the video production "Now You See It, Now You Don't: Preventing Laptop Computer Theft". For more information visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.security-videos.com">http://www.security-videos.com</a>

Basics of RAID

When Good Color Goes Bad...

Even with the popularity of digital technology, and the availability of equipment and software associated with it, many printing firms are still slow to make the changes needed to upgrade their business. More so when it comes to digital photography.More often than not, most typical printing outfits are no set up to process digital files that bad results do happen. Mistakes are often made such as conversions of files to CMYK doing irreparable damage to the images, and the operator trying to rectify his mistakes by fixing it with a series of layers, selections, masks and adjustments. These further aggravates the already damaged file by introducing new problems like banding, and colors that look muddy, desaturated, neutralized, and unappealing.But this situation can be avoided and great results can be achieved. If you feel that you are not getting the best output for your digital camera images, here are a few key tips for you:Tip 1: PROFILESIt's a must to ask your chosen printer whether they honor embedded RGB profiles. This would mean that they have the capacity to handle RGB color separation work. If they don't want to get your RGB file, or they seem like they don't care or understand what you're saying, then it's time for you to go to another printer.Tip 2: CALIBRATEDRemember to use shops and facilities that regularly calibrate their displays. This can be done with a hardware calibration system.Tip 3: INK JET PRINTSTo avoid second-guessing where the mistakes rest, it is better to just provide your printer with prints, especially to alert operators to potential problems.Tip 4: SHARPNESSAlthough well-sharpened images look a bit intimidating when viewed in Photoshop, especially at 1:1, your image will print well. Great sharpness is required when you're dealing with coarser screens and uncoated stocks.Tip 5: FOR POSITION ONLYLayouts showing FPO images cropped and scaled will help printers provide optimum and sharpened result to your image.Tip 6: COLOR CHECKERWith each new set up for color reference, one printer suggests that you ask your photographer to do a shot of his Gretag MacBeth "Color Checker" target.Tip 7: RAW FILESAsk your photographer if he or she can provide you with digital camera raw files. These raw files will provide you with the greatest latitude and quality in the hands of skilled operators.The best way to go about this problem is to simply deal with printing companies whose prepress staffs understand the basics of color management. People who know and are experts on the advantages of digital raw camera files, and explain them to you when asked.If not, then it's better for you to change now.For comments and suggestions regarding this article please contact <a href="mailto:webmaster@ucreative.com">webmaster@ucreative.com</a> or visit <a target="_new" href="http://www.ucreative.com">http://www.ucreative.com</a>

How to Read Zener Diode Code

Many technicians are confused on how to really read a zener diode code. There are many types of code number indicated on it's body. The look and shape of a zener diode sometimescan be mistaken to be a normal signal diode. To differentiate it, is by looking at the codenumber on it's body- whether it is a normal diode or zener diode. Thanks to the manufacturers where their main boards are printed with the word 'ZD' which referred to zener diode and 'D' means a diode.However, from my experienced some printed circuit board the marking of 'D' also can represent zener diode. This will misled a technician into believing a zener diode is actually a diode. We as a technician or engineer must know or be sensitive about the marking. The only way to find out is by referring the code number printed on the component's body from a semiconductor data book. Without data book it is quite difficult to know the actual zener diode voltage. If you do not have the data book you may go to google search engine and type the following code and hope you can find the answer there! A wrong substitution of zener diode may caused your equipment to malfunction and sometimes will even blow your equipment. Time and money are loss due to that we lack of knowledge of identify the right zener diode voltage. If you are unable to identify the code, do not worry as this newsletter are here to guide you to successfully on how to read the zener diode code.5.1=5.1Volt zener diode5V1=5.1Volt zener diode12= 12 Volt zener diode12V= 12 Volt zener diodeBZX85C22=22Volt 1 watt zener diode (refer to ECG PHILIPS SEMICONDUCTORS MASTER REPLACEMENT GUIDE)BZY85C22=22Volt 1/2 watt zener diode (refer to ECG PHILIPS SEMICONDUCTORS MASTER REPLACEMENT GUIDE)Note: There is also part number such as BZVXXXXX where you have to find it from ECG SEMICONDUCTOR BOOK.1N4746= 18 Volt 1 watt zener diode (refer to ECG PHILIPS SEMICONDUCTORS MASTER REPLACEMENT GUIDE)6C2=6.2 Volt zener diode. (If you look at the zener diode code it is written as 6C2 READING FROM TOP TO BOTTOM) Don't read from bottom to top otherwise the value you get is 2C6 which you cannot find from data book!I believe many will ask how do I get the voltage for the code of 6C2. Still refer to ECG book, you have to search for HZ part number. That's mean instead of finding 6C2, search for HZ6C2 and you will get the answer! The lowest zener voltage that I came across was 2.4 volt and the highest was 200 Volt 5 watt.Conclusion- Be alert when checking the part number of a zener diode. Don't always assume that a small signal diode is always a zener diode. Carefully observe the marking on the main board and read the zener diode part number refer to the semiconductor book, preferably ECG SEMICONDUCTOR DATA BOOK which you can get from your local electronic distributor. With this knowledge in mind, you will be successfully find the right voltage of a zener diode.Jestine Yong is a electronic repairer and writer. For more information on electronic repair please visit his website at <a target="_new" href="http://www.noahtec.com">http://www.noahtec.com</a>

วันอาทิตย์ที่ 28 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551

Correctional Institution Preventive Maintenance Software

There is a great need for preventive maintenance in correctional institutions. The public would be at risk if penal facilities waited to solve problems until after they manifested themselves. Correctional institution preventive maintenance software is necessary to ensure that life in the facility runs smoothly and none of the prisoners escape. As the governments and other organizations allot revenues for correctional facilities, there may be debate about the costs of such maintenance. Although the software is expensive, it is both effective and necessary.The best way to implement preventive maintenance software in correctional institutions is to integrate it in facilities statewide. This provides a uniform plan for all of the penal institutions and makes it easier for such facilities to work together if need be. This also assures that all of the institutions will be equally maintained and none will be in worse condition than the others. As with many other large institutions, standardization of correctional facilities is of paramount importance.There are many goals of correctional institution preventive maintenance software, including maintaining of the prison, reducing or eliminating emergency repairs, and systematically updating the information database. The need to maintain the physical facility is obvious ? the safety of the public and the living conditions of the inmates depend on the prison being well-maintained. The need to avoid emergency repairs is parallel to the maintenance of the facility. The integrity of the facility would be disturbed if the building suddenly needed to be repaired, creating a breach in the orderly pattern of operations. Finally, the creation of a comprehensive database makes it easier to keep accurate records and to share information between facilities.Correctional institution preventative maintenance software streamlines the operations of the facilities and minimizes unpredictable events. In the long run, it saves the taxpayers' money by making the institutions more efficient.<a target="_new" href="http://www.e-preventivemaintenancesoftware.com">Preventive Maintenance Software Info</a> features detailed information on preventive maintenance software for health care and correctional institutions, computer hardware, and personal assets, as well as reviews of preventive maintenance software companies. Preventive Maintenance Software Info is the sister site of <a target="_new" href="http://www.e-fleetmaintenancesoftware.com">Fleet Maintenance Software Web</a>.

Looking for Information on CD Duplication and Replication?

Time is one of the most important things we have that we are always short on. One way to maximize your time is to have the most up to date technology available. But, this can be costly. If you are in the market to purchase CD duplication or replication products, you won't have to spend a lot of money to get quality products to help you with this. Depending on what type of CD duplication you are interested in, you will more then likely find just what you need online and do so quickly.But, what is it that you need your CD duplication to accomplish? For many, simple CD duplication equipment is needed to download music, movies, or files from the Internet. Other things you may need CD duplication for include producing your own music or coping that of another's. What will you use your CD duplication equipment for? What are your needs on a broad scale and then on a specific level as well? By defining what your needs in CD duplication are, you will effectively be able to get the right product for you.Once you know what you need in your CD duplication equipment, you can begin your search. First, you will find that most of all the products you can imagine in CD duplication are available for you to purchase online. While in most cases, we are talking about components to add to your own personal computer, there are many other products for more sophisticated needs as well. First, let us speak of the more sophisticated of CD duplications. If you are looking to have CD's duplicated on a large scale, you may wish to consider looking for a company to manufacture them for you. Unless you plan to do this often, having someone else handle your CD replication can be a great time saver and money saver as well.Now, if you are looking for CD duplication for your computer, you face a completely different situation. First of all, most new models of computers actually come with CD burning features that can allow you to download off the internet a wide variety of things including music, movies, software and more. You can also copy CD's from one drive to the next. So, for personal use, CD duplication software may already be on your computer.Regardless of what type of CD duplication you are planning to do, you can find all the necessary equipment and materials available to you online. What you need to do, though, is determine if you need to purchase CD duplication equipment or possibly enable a company to service your CD duplication needs. Or, you may simply want or need to own your own CD duplication equipment. In that case, you'll be surprised at all that is available to help you. You may even be able to purchase an add-on to your current computer that will allow you to do your own CD duplication. Whatever you need, there is something out there to provide it to you!Gonzalo Roca <a href="http://www.cd-duplication-directory.com">http://www.cd-duplication-directory.com</a>

วันเสาร์ที่ 27 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551

How To Stop Junk Faxes From Wasting Your Paper and Toner

Junk faxes waste the resources of every business. It is estimated that they cost businesses tens of millions of dollars a year in wasted paper, toner and fax machine maintenance. There is nothing more aggravating then coming into the office each morning to find a pile of junk faxes promotion everything from mortgage refinancing to septic tank solutions. I don't even have a septic tank!Junk fax companies have been fined by the federal government and sued repeatedly, but has anyone noticed a reduction in the number of junk faxes? I certainly haven't. The question for most businesses is whether there is a practical way to beat the daily waste of resources caused by junk faxes? Many businesses are using the fax-to-email solution provided through online unified messaging systems.What is Unified Messaging?Unified Messaging is a highly flexible communication system that ties all of your communications together. It has the capacity to centralize your voice mail, faxes and email messages in one online area through an email address and single phone number. These systems use their own phone lines and provide you with a separate number, so you don't have to tie up your own or have an additional line installed.Fax to Email ConversionOne of the best aspects of Unified Messaging systems is the fax-to-email conversion feature. You are provided with a phone number where people can send you faxes and leave voice mail messages. The beauty of the system is that the faxes are then automatically converted to text files and emailed to an inbox.So, how does this save you money? You simply delete the junk faxes unless, of course, you need to "maximize the potential of your septic tank." You then read or print out the faxes that are germane to your business. No wasted paper, no wasted toner and no smoke coming out of your fax machine!An added advantage of the fax-to-email conversion element of unified messaging is the flexibility it gives you. Since the faxes are available to you online, you can print the ones you need at any location. You no longer have the frustrating situation where you are working at home, but need to see a fax that was just sent to your office. You just access your inbox and print it out.The cost of using unified messaging is very low, particularly when compared to the cost of wasted paper, toner and fax machine maintenance. Depending on the service you use, you may be charged a monthly signup fee, by the minute for phone line usage or both. The best option for your business is entirely dependent upon the number of faxes you expect to receive each month.Despite the lawsuits and fines issued by government agencies, there is little doubt that junk faxes will continue to bombard your fax machines. Unified messaging provides an inexpensive and practical way to eliminate the cost of junk faxes.About The AuthorBarry Waxler is the President of http://3in1box.com - your unified messaging solution. Visit http://www.3in1box.com to get your FREE unified messaging box or contact Barry at BarryWaxler@3in1box.com

Expansion Cards Part 1: (of a 3 part series)

PCIThe expansion slots available on motherboards allow for a variety of upgrades in a computer system, but matching the appropriate card to an available slot needs to be addressed before making any purchasing decisions. The most common types of expansion cards for modern computer systems can be broken down into three formats: PCI, AGP, and PCI Express. Each of these formats will be addressed separately in this three part series of Tech Tips, starting with PCI.The letters "PCI" stand for Peripheral Component Interconnect, and is the term used to describe a bus that connects components directly to the system's memory and to the system's processor through the "frontside bus." When discussing communications on a motherboard, the term "bus" has nothing to do with the big yellow thing that takes the kids to school. There may be several buses in a computer, and like the PCI bus, they are all responsible for managing the communication "traffic" from different devices to the processor.The frontside bus is a high speed connection that manages the processor's communication with items such as hard drives, memory, and PCI devices, while not burdening the processor with all of the management responsibilities.First developed by Intel in the early 1990s, PCI was spawned from even earlier (and slower) bus architectures such as ISA (Industry Standard Architecture) and VL-Bus (VESA Local), which were common back in the 1980s and 1990s.The original specifications for the PCI Bus had a speed of 33 MHz, with a 32-bit bus width, and a maximum bandwidth of 132 MB per second. There have been a few revisions to the PCI standard which have significantly increased these specifications, taking it to 66 MHz, 64-bit, and 512 MB per second, respectively. The 32-bit and 64-bit versions have different physical features, and most motherboards only offer 32-bit connections. The original power specification had PCI devices operating on 5V DC, and with the revisions came the capability for devices to continue using 5V, as well as now being able to operate on 3.3V DC.A simple explanation of 32-bit and 64-bit can be had by continuing the analogy of buses and traffic. Think of each bit as a lane of traffic on the communication path. Think of a 32-bit bus as having 32 lanes of traffic, and a 64-bit bus having 64 lanes of traffic. Just as a greater number of cars can travel simultaneously on a road with more lanes, more data can be transferred on a bus with a larger bit count.Motherboards can support multiple slots sharing one PCI Bus, and although not particularly common, can include more than one PCI bus. Depending on the form factor size of the motherboard, and other features that may be taking up space on the board, one can expect to have one to six PCI slots on a typical motherboard. For example, the mATX format features just two 32-bit PCI slots, while the ATX format features six 32-bit PCI slots.A 32-bit PCI card features 124 pins for mating with a slot on a system's motherboard, and will fit into either a 32-bit or 64-bit slot (although data transfer will be 32-bit in either type of slot).A 64-bit PCI card features 184 pins for mating with the appropriate slot on a system's motherboard, but can generally fit into a 32-bit slot as well, as long as features on the motherboard do not interfere. When installed in a 32-bit slot, data transfer on a 64-bit card will be limited to 32-bit.The Intel STL2 Dual Socket 370 Server Board w/VRM The Intel STL2 Dual Socket 370 Server Board is a good reference for comparing 32-bit and 64-bit PCI slots. Looking at the lower left corner of the motherboard shows four 32-bit PCI slots and two 64-bit PCI slots.Subsequent installments in this series of Tech Tips will look at AGP and PCI Express, each of which has its own unique physical features. Although the different format PCI cards may be interchangeable, PCI, AGP, and PCI Express cards do not work (or fit) in any other type of slot.Most PCI cards will be of the 32-bit variety, and the selection of items available is fairly extensive. Graphics cards, sound cards, network cards, RAID controllers, TV tuners, modems, and USB/Firewire controllers are all common items that may be added to a system through the use of a PCI card.Many of the items listed in the previous paragraph can be found integrated on modern motherboards, but these onboard devices offer no upgrade ability. PCI devices provide plug and play installation, allowing a user to install (or remove) a device with ease. For example, an inexpensive 2-channel sound card may be good enough for someone initially, but down the road they may decide that something like the 7.1 channel Sound Blaster Audigy 2 offers the sound quality they really want. Upgrading is a matter of powering down the system, swapping the cards, rebooting, and installing the new software/drivers (OK, perhaps a bit over simplified). The good thing about PCI cards is that, even if you do have a board with built-in feature (such as built-in sound mentioned above), your motherboard's BIOS will usually lets you disable that feature if you did want to add an upgraded card (such as the Audigy sound card mentioned in the example above), or the card can complement the feature already built-in (such as an IDE RAID card).The one area that drove the development of AGP is the performance of PCI based graphics cards. The demands of fast-paced video games, and other graphically intensive applications, require a great deal of bandwidth, which just wasn't available on the PCI Bus. Considering that all of the devices on the PCI Bus share the bandwidth available, an even faster, dedicated bus was required to handle just the graphics data. PCI graphics cards are still available though, and make for an easy way to add a second display to a system currently operating on an AGP or PCI Express graphics card.Final WordsThe PCI slot has been around for a while, and seems to have a place in at least the near future of computer architecture. AGP and PCI Express offer performance benefits that the PCI standard cannot match, but for many applications, the performance offered by PCI is more than adequate. Be sure to check out the next Tech Tips in this series for the basics of AGP.<a target="_new" href="http://www.geeks.com">Computer</a> <a target="_new" href="http://www.geeks.com/pix/techtips.htm">tech tips</a> and <a target="_new" href="http://www.geeks.com/pix/techtips.htm">computer help</a>

Best DVDs for Your Personal DVD Player

When bought personal DVD player, the very next thing to do is purchasing an important DVDs collection with your favourite movies, documentaries, shows, cartoons. Here are few hints before buying.Have you just bought a portable personal DVD player and no clues about what DVD shows can you enjoy? Well, net is abounding in all kind of tops. In order to pick up what you wish before your escape into vacation, take a glance on these ones. These following pass for significant classifications. According to bestdvd.co.uk:Top 20 DVD'sTitle Total %1. American Beauty 6%2. Fight Club 96%3. Se7en 95%4. Halloween (Ltd Edition) 94%5. American History X 93%6. The Matrix 93%7. Terminator 2 93%8. Shrek 93%9. The Abyss 93%10. Fellowship of the Ring 92%11. Gladiator 92%12. The Holy Grail 92%13. Jurassic Park 92%14. Tarzan 92%15. The Sixth Sense 91%16. Independance Day 91%17. Three Kings 91%18. Blade II 90%19. Silence Of the Lambs SE 90%20. The Green Mile 90%Best DVD's of 2003According to amazon.com, these are:<li>The Lord of the Rings - The Return of the King (Widescreen Edition) DVD<li>Finding Nemo (Collector's Edition) DVD<li>City of God DVD<li>Seabiscuit (Widescreen Edition) DVD<li>Master and Commander - The Far Side of the World (Widescreen Special Two-Disc Set) DVD<li>The Last Samurai (Widescreen Edition) DVD<li>Kill Bill, Volume 1 DVD<li>Pirates of the Caribbean - The Curse of the Black Pearl DVD<li>X2 - X-Men United (Widescreen Edition) DVD<li>Mystic River (3 Disc Deluxe Edition) DVDTop 10 Films of 2004, So Far - Independent FilmThis top is realized by worldfilmabout.com:<li>The Trilogy, together, Lucas Belvaux' "On the Run," "An Amazing Couple," and "After the Life"<li>Before Sunset<li>Dogville<li>Festival Express<li>Maria Full of Grace<li>The Five Obstructions<li>The Dreamers<li>Bon Voyage<li>Control Room<li>Coffee and Cigarettes For the RZADMC AwardsAccording to dvdmoviecentral.com, DMC Awards let us know which are:<ul><li>the best overall DVD<li>THE TWO TOWERS: SE<li>Finding Nemo<li>Black Hawk Down: Deluxe Ed.<li>Pirates of the Caribbean<li>Who Framed Roger Rabbit<li>Best children and family DVD<li>THE LION KING<li>Finding Nemo<li>Sleeping Beauty<li>Harry Potter/Chamber<li>The Love Bug<li>best documentary feature<li>CASABLANCA (Bacall on Bogart)<li>The Great Dictator (The Tramp and the Dictator)<li>The Two Towers: SE (Gollum)<li>Black Hawk Down: Deluxe Ed.<li>Tokyo Story<li>best video quality (color)<li>STAR TREK: NEMESIS<li>Finding Nemo<li>Identity<li>Blue Crush<li>Sleeping Beauty<li>best video quality (black&white)<li>THE GREAT DICTATOR<li>Coup de Grace<li>Umberto D<li>Wings of Desire<li>In Cold Blood<li>best restoration (pre-1970):<li>ONCE UPON A TIME IN THE WEST<li>The Great Dictator<li>Metropolis<li>The Love Bug<li>Sleeping Beauty</ul>Even those who are in love with classic movies should be satisfied. Movies such as "Sunset Boulevard" (1950) SpecialCollector's Edition DVD or "Roman Holiday" (1953) Special Collector's Edition DVD have been released recently. The picture and sound are as good as on any contemporary film.About The AuthorDana Scripca writes for <a href="http://www.allportabledvdplayers.com" target="_new">http://www.allportabledvdplayers.com</a> where you can find more information about portable DVD playersPlease feel free to use this article in your Newsletter or on your website. If you use this article, please include the resource box and send a brief message to let me know where it appeared: mailto: <a href="mailto:danascri@gmail.com">danascri@gmail.com</a>

Flyback Transformer-How to Locate the ABL Line

Whenever there is a complaint about monitor contrast problem I will check on the flyback transformer ABL (automatic blanking limiter) circuit. Sometimes a weak picture tube might caused contrast problem. If the picture tube is good, I will go straight to the contrast circuit. The question is how do we find where the contrast circuit located? Simple, if you have a datasheet for the video pre- amplifier ic, definitely you can find the contrast pin. For LM1203N video pre-amp ic the contrast pin is located at pin 12. Replace this ic or trace from this circuit to find the cause of the contrast problem.From experienced, usually capacitors shorted and resistor turned into high ohms were the caused of the problem. A video pre-amplifier can also be defective. To confirm whether is circuit or ic problem, just solder out the contrast pin and switch on the monitor. If the monitor display normal picture (contrast ok) then suspect the abl line circuit. If it remain the same (dim contrast) replace the video pre-amp will usually solve the problem.The contrast signal came from one of the pin (leg) of a flyback transformer which we called it as abl pin. Many technicians have the difficulty to trace the abl pin because usually a flyback transformer consist of around 10 pins. Some pins are B+, GROUND, AFC, ABL, X-RAY PROTECT, VCC, to HOT, HEATER, horizontal centering and etc. But there is one and simple way that i'm gone to show you how to locate the abl pin. Use two analog multimeters set to x10kohm range. Connect it in series (+ probe to - probe) and measure the flyback transformer from anode (the red cap) to all of the pins under the flyback. You have to desolder all the pin or just remove the flyback from the mainboard in order to get an accurate reading.If either one of the pin shows a diode reading that is the abl pin. The reason we use two multimeters is because the flyback circuit internally have couple of high voltage diodes connected in series. If you have a schematic diagram or any monitor or television troubleshooting book, you will see that the internal flyback diode are connected in series. By connecting two meters the ouput from the probe is around 24 VOLTS which is enough power to check the flyback internal diodes. After you have determined the abl pin, you can proceed to follow the line and find the bad components that cause the contrast problem.Television or tv flyback transformer generally have the same design compare to monitor flyback. Whether it is a montblanc flyback transformer, rca, mitsubishi or sony flyback the checking usually is the same.Jestine Yong is a electronic repairer and a writer. For more electronic repair information please visit his website at <a target="_new" href="http://www.noahtec.com/electronic-repair-articles.htm">http://www.noahtec.com/electronic-repair-articles.htm</a>

Just The Fax, M?am

For years, I smugly prided myself as a non-fax machine person. I felt it beneath my dignity to own such a technical contraption. The quill is more my style than a computer but, being practical, I reluctantly use a computer, casting wistful glances at the dust gathering on my quill.Unfortunately, in the world in which we live, it is necessary to fax some letters or documents to someone in some odd part of the world. I don't like it, but that's just the way it is.On the rare occasion when I must fax some document at an office supply store, I usually sneak in the back way. It has been my experience, when the fax man seeth me cometh, he always raises the price per page. This is just a small service he does for Yours Truly.Then, when paying for this service, the fax man usually says with an impish grin, "When are you going to get a fax machine of your own?"I always flash a smile back at him, but if he knew the thoughts in my head, he would charge me more per page. Silence truly is golden, especially for the person exercising the virtue.Actually, I don't trust machines. I know a mind somewhere is controlling all of these machines - a menacing, mischievous mind dedicated to the simple task of messing up my life.When I eventually break down and buy a fax machine someone will invent something to replace it and I'll have another antique on my hands to put alongside of my Underwood typewriter and boxes of 8-track tapes.This notwithstanding, I ended up buying a fax machine several weeks ago. I didn't want to, but I had no choice in the matter.My printer finally went the way of all printers. I hated to see it go. The left side was cracked where Noah, the original owner, dropped it. For years, it served me quite well. My next printer will have a big ink cartridge to fill.I hate buying replacement equipment. Rarely is the new any better than the old, just more expensive, not to mention complicated. But, necessity is the stepmother of all complications in life, and I set out to buy a new printer.I resolutely did not want to buy a fax machine. Under no circumstance did I want to buy a fax machine. Therefore, I ended up buying a fax machine.It is impossible to buy a printer anymore. In order to buy a printer you must buy a machine that prints/copies/scans/faxes. I think it's a pretty sneaky way to get me to buy a fax machine. Someone "out there" is set on me owning a fax machine even though I don't want to own one.This new machine does everything but vacuum the interior of my car. But it was the cheapest machine I could find.I bought the machine but determined not to use the fax part. After all, somebody has to stand up for what they believe. Not everybody should succumb to the latest trend.I was doing fine until ending up in the hospital. When I got out, I needed to fax a document to the hospital. Now I faced a taxing dilemma.Do I go to the office store and fax my document, or do I try out my new printer/copier/scanner/fax machine?Precedence finally gave way to convenience. I took my document to my new machine and figured out how to fax it to the hospital.Not being confident in my technical knowledge, I called the hospital office to check on the faxed document. Much to my surprise the person on the other end said in a very cheery voice, "Yes, I have the faxed document right here in my hand."I must admit, although I hate doing so, faxing from my house was much easier than going to the office store.I now knew how to fax a document anywhere in the world, but I had nothing to fax to anyone in the world. I just stood there looking at my machine trying to think of something to fax.Even though I knew how to fax a document, I still did not know how to receive a fax.Several days ago, a friend called and said he had a document he wanted me to have right away. He then asked the ominous question, "Do you have a fax machine?"I began to say no, but hesitated and confessed I had a fax machine but did not know how to receive faxes. It was humiliating to make such a confession, but it was true."It's simple," he said, "hang up the phone and I'll dial again and let the machines talk to one another."This caused no small discomfort. To think these machines are talking to one another behind my back is most disturbing. What are they saying about me behind my back?Now that I come to think about it, I have heard sounds similar to snickering coming from the general direction of my printer/scanner/copier/fax machine. I don't mind Big Brother watching over me, but I do mind some machine making jokes with other machines about me.When it comes to "new things," God is the master. This is what He promises to do for us. "Therefore if any man be in Christ, he is a new creature: old things are passed away; behold, all things are become new." (2 Corinthians 5:17 KJV.)Put that in your printer and fax it.Reverend Snyder is currently ministering at the "Family of God Fellowship" in Ocala, Florida. More of his articles are available for reprint at his website: <a target="_new" href="http://www.godspenman.com/">http://www.godspenman.com/</a> Rev. Snyder is available as a guest speaker. He writes a weekly column and is the author of "You Can Always Tell a Pastor; But Not Very Much" available at: <a target="_new" href="http://www.jamessnyderministries.com/">http://www.jamessnyderministries.com/</a>

Dusting Your Computer - Keeping it Cool

My mother always told me to dust, but I never did, mostly because I was lazy, but also because I couldn't find any tangible benefit to dusting. I just didn't see how I'd benefit from my room or my things being less dusty. Well now I've gotten a bit older, and I finally found a reason to dust - a cooler running computer. I'm going to give some background on my own system and circumstances first, then run tests before and after dusting, as well as explain how and what I used to dust. Be sure to take a look at this article - with pictures and graphs - plus a whole lot more, at aworldofhelp.com.I've had the computer in question for a little over two years, a dual AMD Athlon MP workstation that while no longer the top of the line, is still plenty fast enough for what I do. The computer is running at standard speeds and specifications, and has always been very stable - but not 100%. When the system was about a year old I had been getting by with the occasional, roughly once weekly lock up. At that point, I finally spent the time to try and diagnose the problem.To be perfectly clear, I'm talking about a lock up, where everything stops responding, the screen freezes and I have to reboot, not simply an application crash, which I can usually just blame on Microsoft. My initial thought was that the computer was overheating, specifically the CPUs. I was a little hesitant though because I was running AMD retail processors at standard specifications with AMD retail heatsinks and fans, and I figured that should have been a fine setup. But I've had CPUs overheat before when I was sure that was the problem and this just felt like it now. I did some research online and it looked like the AMD cooling solutions were somewhat underwhelming performers, so I broke down and bought new heatsinks and fans. These still weren't top of the line, but they reduced my CPU temperatures immediately by about 20%.In unscientific testing I'd say my computer was absolutely more stable after the reduction in temperature. I estimate the weekly lockup became a monthly or even every other monthly lockup. This clearly isn't perfect for a system that really should be 99.99% stable, but it was a big improvement, and I let the problem go for a while. I will note that as many of you many assume, this computer is always on, twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week.Anyway now it's another year later and my computer is increasingly unstable again. I'm not going to go out and get better heatsinks and fans again, as I'm sure the improvement would be less than before. My next though was about how dusty the whole system is. I know I should have dusted it once in the last two years, but I never got around to it. I'd say I live in an average environment in terms of dustiness, not especially better or worse, and I just never thought it would make a very significant difference in my CPU temperature. As you'll see, I was completely wrong - which incidentally might make my mother right.Almost all users should really consider the results of both tests, possibly giving more weight to the one which most closely matches your typical computing. Even if you run predominantly business applications, you'll almost certainly occasionally do something that falls under this content creation test, editing pictures or an occasional home movie, for example. So consider all the tests, don't just focus on one graph.Should you dust your computer? Yes, why not, it can't hurt. But really, there are tangible benefits of cleaning your computer, even if it seems stable right now.Computers and electronics in general don't like heat. Dust blocks fans in your case, which generally cool you CPU, video card and motherboard components. Dust also blocks fans and their airflow into and out of your case. Cool air needs to be brought into a case, and then the host air dispelled. If the airways are blocked, system temperature can rise quickly. If your computer is stable but the CPU is running too hot, you cut down on its lifespan, potentially quickly.More important to many people though, may be the result of that first heat related computer lock up. Even if it's never been a problem before, if your computer crashes at the wrong time it can be catastrophic. Usually mine just locks up when I'm away from it, or overnight, and I just turn it back on and restart Firefox and haven't lost anything important. But last week it locked up with unsaved graphs for my last article and Excel chose no to auto save. I spent the hour it took to redo them considering ways to eliminate these lock ups.Of course, reducing heat is also always a priority for people who overclock their CPU. For those that don't know, overclocking is running a CPU at a higher frequency than it was sold to run at. For example, you could take your Intel Pentium 4 that is running at a "clock" rate of 2 GHz, and try to run it at 2.1 GHz, 2.5 GHz, faster speeds, or anywhere in between. I have an old dual CPU system that was supposed to run at 366 MHz. Instead I ran the chips at 500 MHz each, which was a huge performance gain. Overclocking is actually a great way to get more "free" performance out of a system, as long as you can maintain stability. Usually the single biggest factor for success is reducing heat as much as possible.Another thing to note is that while it is very important to keep CPU heat to a minimum, hard drives, video cards, and other components all need to be kept cool as well. In fact, I don't really know for sure that my CPUs are the current problem. I think they are, but my next guess (if I'm correct that it's a heat problem) would be my video card, since I've checked, and it runs really hot.Consider this as well, if my CPU were to actually stop working because it was too hot, it would probably be a gradual process, and I could fix the situation by purchasing a replacement. If my hard drive crashes and ultimately loses data, that could be a much more problematic situation. I could replace the drive, but recovering the data could be far more difficult than just replacing a CPU.I opened up the system and saw more dust than computer. All the fans were covered in dust, and their airflow was totally blocked. I put the case back on and took temperature readings of my computer both idle and when working. The tests are all run are on the following system:CPU - Dual AMD Athlon MP 2000+ (1.67 GHz) Motherboard - AMD K7-D RAM - 1024 MB RAM (2 x 512 MB registered DDR 2100) Video Card - Matrox Parhelia AGP 128 MB HD - Segate 5400 rpm- st320410a Windows XP SP2I picked that unexciting hard drive because it was the only one I had that reports temperature.For the idle readings the computer was freshly booted into Windows. To get the computer running at full load I ran two instances of Prime95, a math application that will max out a CPU (2 copies running, one each for 2 CPUs), and copied 2 GB of Music on the hard drive to another folder on the same drive. The entire process took about half an hour.Without anything to compare them to, those numbers for the most part aren't terribly interesting. My only reaction was that 63 degrees Celsius seems pretty hot, and the idle CPU temperatures aren't too wonderful either. Remember, each CPU type has a different recommended temperature range. 63 degrees may be too hot for mine, but could be either acceptable, or perhaps way too hot for your own. Regardless, you hopefully will notice a relative reduction in temperature after dusting.Dusting the computerAs I said, I've never dusted a computer before, but I came up with what ended up being a reasonable plan. I bought compressed air and a small brush from staples for $7 total and used a rag I have here. I made sure to unplug my computer, grounded myself to discharge static electricity by touching something metal other than my computer, opened up the case and was ready to go.As long as you make sure your computer is unplugged, don't get anything wet, and are gentle while you have it opened, you really shouldn't damage anything. For the most part, the inside of your computer is delicate, but it isn't brittle. The most notable exception is your CPU. If you were to disconnect it and pull it out of the motherboard you would expose pins on the bottom that are in fact extremely delicate.You could do a really thorough job by taking everything apart and getting all the dust out, but I didn't want to spend that much time doing it and I figured if I left everything connected their was less chance I'd mess something up. So I used the air, brush and rag and got the dust off the computer, taking the most time to clean the fans and the holes they blow out of.I ran the same tests again, and the results were dramatic.Idle, CPU 1 saw an 18% reduction in temperature, while CPU 2 is 10% cooler. That's very important, as all those hours my computer is sitting doing very little it's going to be considerably cooler.At full load, CPU 1 is 21% cooler and CPU 2 is 12% cooler. These are again very impressive results, and very important as well. I have had lock ups when video encoding and doing other CPU intensive tasks, and now the chips should be running cooler while doing those.It's interesting that originally CPU 1 was hotter than CPU 2, and after the cleaning they switched. An important fact is that the temperature reporting on this type of dual AMD Athlon system is generally uneven. That said, CPU 1 was easier to dust around because the DVD drives were in the way of CPU 2, so I probably did a better job cleaning the former and there is still likely room for improvement in cooling the latter.One other note, I kept track of the fan speeds before and after cleaning, and I saw about a 2% increase in the CPU fan speeds after I dusted. I wasn't expecting this at all, and certainly can't be certain that this will always result from dusting, but it could be very interesting for overclockers trying to eak out every last bit of fan performance.The hard drive temperature saw a 9% improvement while idle after dusting, and again a 9% improvement at full load. It's a nice temperature reduction for a mechanical component that will be grinding away for thousands of hours over the life of your computer.The case temperature stayed the same throughout all the tests.ConclusionAll in all I was surprised the results were so dramatic. I expected few degrees for the CPUs and maybe one for the hard drive, but to see a 20% reduction in temperature is just great. There is defiantly room for improvement as well. The CPU fans have covers that I could have taken off and gotten more dust out, and as I mentioned reaching one of the CPUs was harder than the other. Further, I'd say I got most of the dust inside my computer, well over 90%, but I still saw some that proved more challenging to clean that I was willing to bother with. Taking all the cards out and thoroughly cleaning the whole system would have no doubt led to even better results.My system has maintained the cooler temperatures so far, a week after the cleaning, and I haven't had a lock up since. I can't be certain I've solved the lock up problem, but it does appear I have for now. At the very least, I can be sure CPU heat is not the problem, as now they are running at very acceptable temperatures. Your own results will vary, and may not be as dramatic if your computer wasn't as dusty as mine. Regardless, you should see some reduction in component temperature after cleaning your system.All in all I recommend you take a look around and inside your computer to see how it looks. If it's dusty, $7 and an hour of your time seems like a good investment to increase the life of your computer and prevent system lock ups. I suspect many people suffer the occasional heat caused lock up, it just isn't obvious what the problem is, and they don't occur often enough to be a serious concern. But remember, even if you only have one heat caused lock up in the entire life of your computer, it could come at the worst time, or cause permanent damage.Steve Perlow is the founder of <a target="_new" href="http://aworldofhelp.com">aworldofhelp.com</a>, where you can find the aworldofhelp Top Picks in desktop and notebook systems. Visit aworldofhelp.com to get answers from real people to your questions about technology, travel and more.

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Dusting Your Computer - Keeping it Cool

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